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This guide is provided to assist residents of Woodbury Ridge Sutton to manage the weeds on their land. For the stewardship and hilltop blocks, as part of their purchase contract there is a Biodiversity Management Plan in place that requires certain actions to be undertaken which includes weed management. Owners of village and riverside blocks are encouraged to support the whole of the Estate by actively managing weeds on their blocks. Owners responsibilities extend to the verge outside the fence line to the road.
Whilst this guide does provide chemical and non-chemical guidance, the non-chemical options are encouraged in the first instance to protect the valuable microbes in the soil as well as our native flora and fauna.
For hilltop and stewardship blocks, the biodiversity management plan imposes additional requirements. It requires the specific weed control techniques employed to be determined by suitably qualified and experienced parties. Weed control activities are required to be conducted in a manner that is sensitive to the fauna values on the site, including:
use of non-herbicide based weed removal methods wherever possible; and
application of herbicides that are sensitive to fauna that are valued on the site, especially Golden Sun Moth and Superb Parrot
Herbicides where required should be used for spot spraying only to avoid loss of native species.
Verges outside fences are not part of the land protected under the Biodiversity Management Plan and so more aggressive approaches can be taken with herbicides noting that care should be taken regarding spray drift.
Most sensitive methods
Removing weeds by hand – best after rain when the roots are loose. A mattock is a very useful tool
Slashing – particularly before weed grasses flower
Steam and boiling water – access to a steamer through a contractor may be feasible
Mulch - very thick mulch to smother the weeds – suitable for large patches of weeds – this may require covering the weeds with materials like cardboard and newspapers; this method would need to be undertaken in conjunction with a subsequent planting
Still sensitive
Use of organic weedkillers such as “Slasher”. Slasher is readily available at Bunnings and is a glyphosate free herbicide. The active ingredient is made from plant oils. It impacts the weed on contact, causing it to dehydrate and collapse.
Vinegar and baking soda can also be effective, as can dish soap with vinegar and salt
Stewardship and Hilltop Block Biodiversity Management Plan Requirements
Stewardship and Hilltop Block Biodiversity Management Plan Requirements
Records are required to be kept by the owners of the hilltop and stewardship blocks of all weed control activities. This applies not just to weeds but also to feral pests. Fertiliser and pesticides can only be used for specific reasons, eg use of urea to control serrated tussock. The proforma record is provided on the last page of this document. A reminder that photo point monitoring is required every 12 months and must be kept by the owner for a minimum of 3 years. We recommend you consider carrying this out on the anniversary of your purchase each year.
Index of Weeds
Index of Weeds
Identified priority weeds in the Woodbury Ridge Biodiversity Management Plan
Grasses
Grasses
African lovegrass
Serrated tussock
Chilean needle grass
Forbs
Forbs
St Johns Wort
Scotch Thistle
Saffron Thistle
Shrubs
Shrubs
Blackberry
Cotoneaster
Briar rose
Other noxious weeds potentially located on Woodbury Ridge
These weeds are noted as prohibited species in the Biodiversity Management Plan
Paterson’s curse
Firethorn - Pyracantha
Gorse
Other weeds potentially located on Woodbury Ridge
These weeds are not declared noxious weeds in NSW but are considered agricultural weeds of significance
Fleabane
Other references: NSW Weed Control Handbook; ACT Weeds Manual
Disclaimer and warning: all information provided on the chemical treatment of weeds has been taken from the NSW Department of Primary Industries NSW Weedwise site and is current as of March 2025. Chemicals including herbicides and insecticides should always be applied in accordance with product labels and you may consider undertaking an approved chemical handling course such as Chemcert. Many chemicals will have withholding periods before animals are allowed to graze the land after spraying.
AFRICAN LOVEGRASS (Eragrostis curvula)
https://weeds.dpi.nsw.gov.au/Weeds/AfricanLovegrass
Identification:
Found more likely along road edges and brought in by vehicles – can be windblown and is extremely common in Canberra.
This weed will takeover pastures and disturbed areas. It can grow up to 1.2 m tall.
Leaves are dark green to blue-green, 3mm wide with rolled edges.
African lovegrass has a small, thin structure at the base of the leaf blade. This is a ligule. The ligule has a ring of white hairs.
Stems are slender, erect and sometimes bent at the nodes.
Flowers are grey-green when young and straw coloured when mature and are in groups of 4 to 13 on a spike; usually present in summer
Roots are fibrous and tough to dig out.
Seeds can remain viable for up to 17 years.
Native lookalike: Other perennial pasture tussock grasses such as Poa tussock (Poa labillardierei) which is one of our Woodbury Ridge recommended species.
Control:
Non chemical control – if you only have a small amount of African lovegrass it is possible to mattock/dig it out, however it is important to reseed or replant with a replacement to prevent the African lovegrass reseeding. It is important to ensure the entire plant, including the root crown, is removed to prevent regrowth. Additionally keeping grasses short will prevent African lovegrass from flowering and developing seeds. Also maintain groundcover as lovegrass thrives in disturbed soil.
Chemical control – in spring to summer, or when flushes of seedlings appear. Herbicides are most effective: flupropanate or glyphosate. It can take 3 months to have a noticeable effect and up to 18 months to kill the plant. Avoid spraying in winter. Observe grazing withholding periods.
Ensure you bag and dispose of the plants – do not put in your compost.
SERRATED TUSSOCK (Nassella trichotoma)
https://weeds.dpi.nsw.gov.au/Weeds/SerratedTussock
Identification:
Serrated tussock is very invasive and can completely take over new areas within 4 years. Native vegetation communities at risk include grassy woodlands – that is Woodbury Ridge!!
It is similar in appearance to many native species, particularly in autumn and winter, making it difficult to identify when not in flower. A single plant can produce up to 140,000 seeds per season.
Serrated tussock grows in upright tussocks up to 45cm tall and 25cm wide.
The colour of the plant changes over seasons. In:
· Spring, the clumps are light green with brown tips on the leaves
· Late spring and early summer, the clumps have a purple tinge when the seed heads are full emerged
· Summer, plants are green when other grasses turn brown, often the flowers are a golden colour now and then to droop over rather than stay erect
· Winter when frosted, the plant turns a golden yellow.
The leaves are very narrow and tightly rolled, upright and stiff, whitish at the based, looking like shallots, serrated – that is feel sharp when drawing the leaf between your fingers.
The ligule is one of the key identification features for serrated tussock. The ligule can be found at the junction of the leaf sheath and the leaf. Slowly separate and bend the leaf back to see if there is a small, milky coloured, hairless flap 1mm long protruding vertically.
Roots are usually in the top 20cm of soil and are fibrous and difficult to pull out of the ground, even when plants are small.
Native lookalike: Other perennial pasture tussock grasses such as Poa tussock (Poa labillardierei), Snow grass (Poa sieberiana) and Wallaby grass (Rytidosperma) which are all on our list of Woodbury Ridge recommended species.
Control:
Non chemical control – there is new evidence that the use of urea, which is nitrogen rich fertiliser, will assist in reducing serrated tussock by supporting the growth of other species – put bluntly, serrated tussock doesn’t like it and most natives do. Urea is most effective when applied in spring. This also means if you are unsure if the tussock is serrated tussock or a native grass you will not be impacting the natives. A tablespoon of 15% nitrogen fertilizer per tussock has been recommended. This is still a chemical approach but a very mild one.
If you only have a small amount of Serrated tussock it is possible to mattock/dig it out, however it is important to reseed or replant with a replacement to prevent the Serrated tussock reseeding. Ensure the entire plant, including the root crown, is removed to prevent regrowth. Additionally keeping grasses short will prevent Serrated tussock from flowering and developing seeds. Also maintain groundcover to prevent weeds reestablishing. This method followed up with urea application is ideal.
Chemical control – in spring to summer, or when flushes of seedlings appear. Herbicides are most effective: flupropanate or glyphosate. It can take 3 months to have a noticeable effect and up to 18 months to kill the plant. Avoid spraying in winter. Observe grazing withholding periods.
Ensure you bag and dispose of the plants – do not put in your compost.
CHILEAN NEEDLE GRASS (Nassella neesiana)
https://weeds.dpi.nsw.gov.au/Weeds/ChileanNeedleGrass
Identification:
Chilean needle grass grows in tussocks about 1m high. Chilean needle grass has a long bristle called an awn attached to the end of the seed further from the stem. The awn is 6-9 cm long, twisted when dry, straight or with or two distinctive bends, is difficult to pull off the seed and is surrounded by a corona of small teeth where it joins the seed. The seeds have a sharp, needle-like tip which can penetrate the skin and muscle damage. It is easiest to identify in late winter with its winter green growth and frosted tips.
Chilean needle grass is related to African lovegrass.
Native lookalike: Native spear grasses (Austrostipa species) which are preferred species on Woodbury Ridge. The picture below is Austrrostipa bigeniculata – Tall speargrass
Nassella neesiana (Chilean needle grass) and Austrostipa (Speargrass) can be challenging to differentiate, but there are several key distinguishing features:
Seed/Floret characteristics:
Chilean needle grass: Has a distinctive corona (a raised ring or crown) where the awn attaches to the seed. This corona is about 0.8-1.2mm in diameter and appears whitish.
Speargrass: Lacks this corona, having instead a smooth or slightly raised junction where the awn attaches.
Awn (the long bristle):
Chilean needle grass: Has a twice-bent awn that's typically 60-90mm long.
Speargrass: Also has a bent awn but often shorter (varies by species).
Ligule (membrane where leaf meets stem):
Chiliean needle grass: Membranous ligule is 2-4mm long, often torn or ragged.
Speargrass: Ligule length varies by species but is typically shorter.
Growth habit:
Chilean needle grass: Forms dense tussocks with a distinctive purplish coloration at the base of the plant.
Speargrass: Growth habit varies by species but generally doesn't have the same purplish coloration.
Control:
Non chemical control – keeping the growth slashed or mowed will help stop the grass from seeding. Remove them with a mattock.
Chemical control – Spot spraying with flupropanate or glyphosate, however both will leave bare patches. Make use of a spray shield to minimise damage to surrounding plants. Non chemical control recommended in the first instance.
Ensure you bag and dispose of the plants – do not put in your compost.
ST JOHNS WORT (Hypericum perforatum)
https://weeds.dpi.nsw.gov.au/Weeds/StJohnsWort
Identification:
St Johns Wort can be poisonous to livestock. It can make them sensitive to sunlight. Stock will only eat this weed when other feed is scarce. Minor exposure can still impact stock. Never graze when St John’s wort is flowering.
One of the easier weeds to identify with a small bright yellow flower from November to January. They grow to about 1m in height. The flowers then brown off but the flower and seed heads remain. The plants small leaves that are paler green on the underside. The roots are vertical growing to approximately 1 metre deep and they also spread horizontally, producing buds that form from new growth above ground. They have rhizomes which are small bulbs. The weed is a perennial weed, meaning it regrows each year from the roots of last year’s plant.
The weed will spread by seed spread by animals as well as root suckers.
This weed is one of the most common on Woodbury Ridge. Due to its impact on livestock it is recommended this be treated as soon as possible.
If you have this weed and you are grazing livestock refer to the DPI website noted above for detailed guidance.
Warning: Wear gloves when handling St John’s wort, as the leaves and stems are hairy and may cause skin irritation.
Control:
Non chemical control – cutting off the seed heads is a great start – so if you are slashing you will be stopping the seed production cycle. In awkward areas around trees whipper snipper/brushcutter/secaturs can be used. Alternatively grazing hard in spring prior to flowering can delay flowering stem growth as the soft green shoots are low in hypericin which is the poison. The weed is sensitive to strong competition so give it some great competition from our preferred species list.
Unfortunately physical hand-weeding is not an effective way to control St John’s wort. The entire root system has to be removed to stop new plants from growing. Cultivating tends to spread the weed unless all the roots are brought to the surface and dried out.
The best non chemical control is to establish competitive, healthy pastures.
Chemical control – Only spray when St John’s wort is actively growing. Two consecutive years of spraying is often required to kill plants. The deep, extensive root system can survive the first treatment, and the plant can regrow. Spot-spray when St John’s wort is in flower (November to January). It’s too late when the flowers have turned brown. If you have already disposed of the flowers and budding through slashing you can still apply the treatment in this period. Ideally spray before flowering. Various chemicals are recommended on the DPI site.
Biological control – There are a number of biological controls that can assist including the chrysolina beetle that can be found in our area. So please make them welcome if you have them.
Ensure you bag and dispose of the plants – do not put in your compost.
SCOTCH THISTLE (Onopordum acanthium)
https://weeds.dpi.nsw.gov.au/Weeds/Details/252
Identification:
This one is easy to identify. They are very prickly and extra thick gloves may be required during removal.
It is an erect annual or biennial herb generally up to 1.2m.
It is spread by seed and has fine hairs which can attach. It is poorly spread by wind.
Control:
Non chemical control
Isolated plants should be removed by hoe or mattock. Remove as much of the taproot as possible so that regrowth does not occur. Slashing or mowing is not usually effective as plants develop new growth from the base. Immature seed heads that are cut and left lying on the ground can contain viable seed.
Chemical control
Spot spraying noting the most effective time to apply is to seedlings and young rosettes – spring is best, however if there is a fresh flush in autumn this also can be effective.
Biological control
There are some species of weevils and the crown moth that will assist in controlling scotch thistle, affecting the seed set.
BLACKBERRY (Rubus fruticosus)
https://weeds.dpi.nsw.gov.au/Weeds/Blackberry
Identification:
Blackberry is a shrub with tangled, prickly and thorny stems. It quickly infests large areas and forms dense thickets. It is spread by birds and animals feeding on the berries spreading the seeds in their droppings.
Control:
Non chemical control
Isolated plants should be removed by hoe or mattock. For large branches cut these back first. For larger areas removal and mulching of plants by machine may be required. Physical removal and mulching, including mowing, may need to be done over three seasons to be effective. Strong active growing pastures help prevent blackberry invasion. Goats can be effective in controlling blackberry as they prefer to eat these over pasture species.
Chemical control
Spot or splatter spraying noting specialised herbicides are recommended – see DPI Weedwise site.
COTONEASTER (Cotoneaster)
Various species are listed as prohibited on Woodbury Ridge
https://weeds.dpi.nsw.gov.au/Weeds/Cotoneaster
Identification:
Commonly seen as hedges in urban areas, including Canberra, this shrub is considered to be an invasive weed spread primarily from bird and animal droppings. The berries are poisonous to people, dogs and livestock – they turn to cyanide in the stomach. They form dense thickets under trees shading out local native species. They can grow up to 3 metres tall and have small clusters of berries in autumn and winter.
Control:
Non chemical control
Isolated and small plants should be removed by hand, hoe or mattock. For large branches cut these back first. For larger areas removal and mulching of plants by machine may be required. Physical removal and mulching, may need to be done over three seasons to be effective.
Chemical control
Cut stump method – just after fruiting in autumn by cutting the trunks or stems and applying the herbicide to the stump within 15 seconds of cutting.
Stem injection – spring or early summer, before fruit matures in early autumn – drill or make cuts into the sapwood and fill with herbicide within 15 seconds of making the cut.
See DPI Weedwise site for recommended chemicals to be used.
Planting dense, low growing native shrubs soon after controlling the weeds will help prevent new seedlings from growing.
BRIAR ROSE (Rosa rubiginosa)
Also known as Sweet briar
https://weeds.dpi.nsw.gov.au/Weeds/SweetBriar
Identification:
An erect perennial shrub, commonly growing 1.5 to 2 metres high but can be up to 3 metres. Many stems arise from a shallow, perennial rootstock. They are smooth when young and become rough and woody as the plant ages. They arch towards the top and have numerous backward curving flat thorns up to 1.5cm long. Flowers usually appear in late spring and are pink or white with 5 petals. The extensive roots are at least 1 metre long and are usually confined to the top 30cm of soil.
It is mainly spread by birds or animals eating the fruit and distributing the viable seed, or through run off along creeks. Root pieces and disturbed crowns can also produce new growth or suckers.
Control:
Non chemical control
Isolated and small plants should be removed by hand, hoe or mattock. For large branches cut these back first. For larger areas removal and mulching of plants by machine may be required. Physical removal and mulching, may need to be done over three seasons to be effective. Grazing management with sheep and goats can also be useful as they will readily graze young seedlings. Goats will also graze larger plants and eventually defoliate and ringbark them.
Chemical control
See DPI Weedwise site for recommended chemicals and methods to be used.
Planting dense, low growing native shrubs or pasture soon after controlling the weeds will help prevent new seedlings from growing.
PATERSON’S CURSE (Echium plantagineum)
Also known as Salvation Jane and Riverina bluebell
https://weeds.dpi.nsw.gov.au/Weeds/PatersonsCurse
Identification:
Paterson’s curse is a winter annual herb. It is a prolific seeder and seeds can remain dormant for up to 5 years. It is toxic to livestock and can cause human allergies. Commonly around 60cm high. The rosettes are stalked and have distinct, branched veins. Stem leaves are hairy. The 2-3 cm long flowers are shaped like curved trumpets. Flowers appear from September to December.
Control:
Non chemical control
Paterson’s curse will colonise bare ground. The key to preventing seeds to establish is to have good ground cover. Isolated and small plants should be removed by hand, hoe or mattock. The plant does not regenerate from small root segments left in the ground. The best time to weed is prior to flowering. Grazing management is ideal when plants are young and at the rosette stage. Grazing should be stopped when flowering begins. Do not allow horses or cattle to graze Paterson’s curse. Slashing does not kill Paterson’s curse outright but can delay and suppress flowering.
Biological control
There are a number of insects that attack all stages of Paterson’s curse, including varieties of beetles and weevils.
Chemical control
Selective herbicides are available for controlling Paterson’s curse. Non-selective herbicides can also be used to spraytop the weed. Spraytopping uses low rates of non-selective herbicide to sterilise flowers and minimise seed set. See DPI Weedwise site for recommended chemicals and methods to be used.
Ensure you bag and dispose of the plants that have flowered – do not put in your compost.
FIRETHORN (Pyracantha species)
https://weeds.dpi.nsw.gov.au/Weeds/Firethorn
Identification:
Firethorns are evergreen spiny shrubs or small trees. They have leaves of different shapes and sizes on the one plant. All species have white flowers that are present in spring and summer. They produce small, round red berries that mature in autumn.
They look similar to cotoneaster and hawthorn that are also noxious weeds.
Control:
Non chemical control
Isolated and small plants should be removed by hand, hoe or mattock. For large branches cut these back first. Wear appropriate protective clothing to protect against the sharp spines. Make sure all of the roots are removed.
Chemical control
Basal barking – apply herbicide mixed with diesel to cover the lower stem, all the way around the base of the plant.
Cut stump method –cutting the trunks or stems and applying the herbicide to the stump within 15 seconds of cutting.
Stem injection –drill or make cuts into the sapwood and fill with herbicide within 15 seconds of making the cut or drilling.
See DPI Weedwise site for recommended chemicals to be used.
Planting dense, low growing native shrubs soon after controlling the weeds will help prevent new seedlings from growing.
GORSE (Ulex europaeus)
https://weeds.dpi.nsw.gov.au/Weeds/Gorse
Identification:
Gorse is an invasive spiny shrub that forms dense impenetrable thickets. It can also increase the risk of bushfires – as it contains flammable oils and retains dead vegetation. It commonly grows 1 to 2 metres in height. It is long lived and has a deep and extensive root system. Stems are soft, green and hairy when young, becoming brown and woody when mature. Leaves are fiercely spiny and have a waxy coating. Flowers are bright yellow and pea-like. Gorse reproduces by seed from seed pods that fall from the plant.
Control:
Non chemical control
Isolated and small plants should be removed by hand, hoe or mattock. For large branches cut these back first. Make sure all of the roots are removed. Sheep and goats eat gorse seedlings. Large numbers of goats can reduce adult plants. Slashing repeatedly supresses but does not kill plants.
Biological control
There are a number of insects that attack gorse, including varieties of weevils, thrips, moths and mites.
Chemical control
Spray only when the plant is actively growing.
Cut stump method –cutting the trunks or stems and applying the herbicide to the stump within 15 seconds of cutting.
Stem injection –drill or make cuts into the sapwood and fill with herbicide within 15 seconds of making the cut or drilling.
See DPI Weedwise site for recommended chemicals to be used.
FLEABANE (Conyza species)
https://weeds.dpi.nsw.gov.au/Weeds/Fleabane
Identification:
Fleabane is an erect annual herb. There are a number of varieties that have naturalised in NSW. The most likely variety on Woodbury Ridge is the flaxleaf fleabane and is up to 1 metre tall. It is grey-green overall, very hairy and branched from the base. It has whitish flowers that are present for most of the year. Each plant can produce over 100,000 seeds each! The seeds are spread by wind, water and sticking to animals and vehicles.
Control:
Non chemical control
Most fleabane seedlings emerge from late August through to November. Young (one month old or less) fleabane seedlings can be easily controlled but when they develop strong root systems, control is difficult. Isolated and small plants should be removed by hand, hoe or mattock. Slashing repeatedly supresses but does not kill plants nor deal with the seeds. Having good ground cover and plantings will be the best way to stop this weed. Grazing is effective to control this palatable weed.
Chemical control
Fleabane is becoming glyphosate resistant. See DPI Weedwise site for recommended chemicals to be used.
Ensure you bag and dispose of the plants that have flowered – do not put in your compost.
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